Two museums, equal in dignity, separated by 25,000 years and distinctly different architecture. The first, the Cuevas de Tito Bustillo, a cave formation containing some of the oldest art known to man. Famous for its representations of horses spanning several thousand years on a single wall, the art is housed some 200 meters below the earth’s surface in spectacular stalagtite-filled caverns. Why, and to some extent, how, these paintings and carvings are found in such a remote spot still confounds archeologists, but similar paintings from pre-history are found thought the region. A very strict no-photos policy means I’ll move on to the second museum to be visited that day, and a very photogenic one at that, the Guggenheim Bilbao. Housing some the most contemporary of artists and artistic forms, it could not have been more of a contrast from Tito Bustillo, and frankly, knowing the modern tools used and centuries of inspiration to be drawn from, much of the art lacked the impact of those crude ochre, violet and black cave drawings. The building, however, is rad.
The acoustics are surprisingly good, as well.
We consumed a lot of art in a single day, some of it quite literally. In the Basque region of Spain there is precious little difference between culinary and other performance arts, though the modern take on gastronomy is quite a bit easier to swallow than some of the Guggenheim’s exhibitions.
We had a “hit list” of four pintxos bars to visit, and visit we did. Sorry foodies, the bars were too bustling and we were enjoying ourselves too much to document it all here. There were plenty of classics, like grilled anchovies and various combinations with piquillo pepper, and some modern takes, like a soufflé lolli-pop. Just a couple of snapshots for now, because soon you Anthony Bourdain devotees will get your fill, as we get ours.








