But first, this is not the Spain you are thinking of. This is a temperate Spain of steep mountains with tiny villages clinging to their sides. A Spain of green pastures filled with cows and sheep – the goats being left to roam the hillsides. A Spain of salmon runs, beans and hard apple cider. The Picos de Europa – Asturias.

This is a Spain for cyclists: we saw as many today as we saw riding in the hills near El Escorial, and this area is both far cooler and far steeper. It’s a good thing there are opportunities to exercise, because this is cheese country.

Choose wisely.

We selected examples of each of the three famous local cheeses: El Beyo (sheep), Gamonedo (sheep, cow and goat) and Cabrales (cow). El Beyo was dense, lovely, tangy and just-shy-of crumbly. Gamonedo (the local favorite) was born in the mountain meadows and aged in high, cool caves. Flecked with blue throughout the slightly irregular structure, it comes across as slightly smokey. Cabrales you may have had. Or at least like us, you thought you had. What they make and age here is nothing like what makes it past a port of entry into the U.S. This is a dangerous cheese – creamy, pungent and indulgent, yellow-tinged throughout, a little goes a very long way. The aroma makes you wary, but the finish is surprisingly balanced.

The Cabrales:

And since local apples are traditionally served alongside, we opted for the liquid variety.

The afternoon repast, with a view of the Sella river, and the wish that I had packed my bike.

Also, I should mention “fabada,” probably the most famous dish from the region, consisting of beans and a great deal of sausage, you might liken it to cassoulet. But I won’t discuss it further now for two reasons. First, the helpful clerk at the cheese shop had a look of horror when I suggested that we might partake of some for dinner – far too heavy for a nighttime meal she insisted, and besides is it started in the morning and meant to be consumed at midday, meaning we would likely only find leftovers. Second, beans just aren’t as sexy.